Resilience of Coffee in India: Thriving Against British Discouragement

    

    It may come as a surprise to most readers that in the annals of Indian history, coffee once reigned supreme, adorning the social fabric with its aroma and serving as the elixir of intellectual engagement. Historian Stephen Blake's 1991 work, "Shahjahanabad: The Sovereign City in Mughal India 1639-1739," offers a vivid glimpse into a bygone era when coffee houses in Old Delhi, or Shahjahanabad, served as vibrant epicentres of culture. These establishments were not mere places to sip a cup of joe; they were bustling hubs where poets, storytellers, orators, and those in pursuit of intellectual stimulation converged.

    Provincial courts across India yearned to replicate the ambiance of Shahjahanabad's coffee houses, but one nobleman's passion for coffee eclipsed all others. Alivardi Khan, hailing from Arab and Turkman lineage, assumed the role of Nawab Nazim of Bengal from 1740 to 1756. Renowned as a diligent ruler, Khan harbored an ardent love for coffee and the culinary arts. His daily routine, as documented in Syed Gholam Hussein Khan's "Seir Mutaqherin," provides a fascinating glimpse into the integral role coffee played in his life.

    However, the sands of time would soon bring a seismic shift to India's beverage culture. The rise of the East India Company marked a pivotal juncture in the nation's drinking habits. While the British had developed a taste for tea in the late 17th century, primarily supplied by China, they sought a domestic source for their beloved brew. India's favourable soil and climatic conditions, especially in the North-Eastern regions, made it an ideal candidate for tea cultivation. In 1834, Governor General William Bentinck established a committee to explore the potential of establishing the East India Company's tea production unit within India.

    The British discovered not only a willing workforce proficient in cultivating and harvesting tea leaves but also a population increasingly inclined toward tea consumption. As tea farming surged, the British East India Company's fortunes became intrinsically linked to this aromatic infusion, leading to a decline in coffee production. As the trading company ruled the land, the British instituted a ban, barring Indians from visiting coffee houses, reserving these sanctuaries exclusively for Europeans. This and some other repressive measures ensured that the coffee cup doesn't reach the hands of most Indians.

    Despite these suppressive measures, India couldn't escape the global trends of the time. Nestled amidst the verdant hills of Karnataka's Western Ghats lies Coorg, a haven for coffee enthusiasts. Coorg's romance with coffee traces its origins to the 17th century when the legendary Sufi saint, Baba Budan, introduced this aromatic bean to the region. Blessed with fertile soil, optimal rainfall, and an ideal elevation, Coorg provided the idyllic setting for coffee cultivation to flourish. The early coffee plantations in Coorg thrived under the loving care of the Kodava community. To them, coffee cultivation wasn't just a farming practice; it was a cherished part of their agricultural heritage and cultural identity. Their dedication and expertise turned Coorg into a coffee paradise.

    In the southern states of India, where Coorg is nestled, coffee has stood resilient against the encroachment of tea. Here, Filter Kaapi, or Filter Coffee, remains the quintessential household beverage. The hill tracts of South India continue to dominate the nation's coffee production, preserving the legacy of this cherished brew as an integral part of their daily lives.

    In other parts too, enthusiasm for coffee remained alive and well, particularly in Calcutta (now Kolkata). In 1876, the first Indian-run coffee shop, aptly named the Indian Coffee House, opened its doors. Coffee was celebrated not only for its invigorating properties but also for its ability to banish weariness and infuse vitality into its patrons.

    The Indian Coffee House, an iconic institution, continues to stand as a testament to the enduring legacy of coffee culture in India. It has not only retained its old-world charm but also remains a magnet for those seeking a nostalgic sip of aromatic coffee. Moreover, coffee remains deeply ingrained in Indian culture, with numerous café chains and brands catering to the burgeoning community of coffee enthusiasts. Household names such as Café Coffee Day, Barista, and Starbucks reflect the unwavering popularity of coffee as a cherished beverage enjoyed by millions across the nation. The fact that Chai (Tea) still reigns supreme in at least the North Indian household is a colonial legacy.

Aparjeet Nakai